070 Spain: Ronda

Spain: Ronda
Arcos de la Frontera, El Bosque, Grazalema, Zahara on the Sierra, Olvera, Setinel

When Frank first suggested we go to the white villages I thought it would be boring and that we'd just be seeing second quality old ruins. How wrong was I. Andalusia is so varied, spectacular and the roads were so challenging we will always keep the memory of them.

This photo is for my friend Lois who introduced me to a delicious cold tomato soup called Salmorejo. Yummy and filling.

One of the many white villages. They are mainly built into the side of or on a hill. They are dotted in some pretty remote places.
In one town I watched one of the elderly locals trying to navigate her way up the main street that was so steep I was struggling. The parishioners of the church at the top must be very dedicated people!

We saw all these trees that we couldn't decide if they were wild or planted and then we came across an area where all of the trees had their middle section removed of bark and they were orange.
The bark is cork. We were in the middle of a plantation. We saw the big barn with the cork all laid out to dry.
I wonder what the introduction of screw caps on wine bottles has had on this economy?

Rhonda. Spectacular. I think the photos speak for themselves

 

 

See that little tower at the top of the hill?

This is me at the top. Yeah.
At one stage Frank had to help me up some of the steep bits and on the way down I was almost tempted to go down on my bottom as it was so steep.
Frank became fascinated with the prickly-pears. I told him not to touch them. Guess what?

This is the scariest driving we've ever had and believe me we've had some close shaves. See that gap between the front parked car and the wall, well with your wing mirrors folded in you have just under 1cm spare on each side as you pass through. I have no idea how close the cave roof was.

I think the locals just sit here under the rock roof just to be entertained by the tourists trying to drive through. It wouldn't surprise me if the signs pointing this way are just for tourists and that somewhere near by are normal roads!!!!

We are staying in a place about 10km outside of Rhonda at an elevation of just over 600 metres. When the sun went in the temperature plummeted. So we've gone from overnight temperatures of 25C+ to just 12C. It is pouring.  I'm on the balcony reading my book as the room is a bit dark.

I think this is a wonderful photo.
This local is making children's furniture.

Next stop: Back to near Rota.

 

069 Spain: Rota

Spain:  Jerez & Rota

As we leave Cadiz for Rota we spot a new bridge that is being built. I've never seen a bridge under construction. It is a magnificent sight. I wonder how many car crashes have happened as people slow down to take pictures? (We are not the only ones)

We spend a wonderful few hours in Jerez, which in Spanish means Sherry. Their 'brand name' of Sherry is protected by the EU in the same way that Champagne is.
This is one of the founding fathers and Tio Pepe is one of the bigger brands,

We visit the Bodega for Harveys Bristol Cream as both of our mothers were very fond of a drop. According to the guide the bottle should be consumed within a month and kept in the fridge. I think one bottle used to last Ann at least 6 months, without any thought of putting it in the fridge. However there is a major temperature difference between the south of England and the South of Spain :)

They have celebrities sign barrels and for special events create and retain labelled barrels - spot the Alexander Fleming (1948) and the Charlton Heston barrels but Frank was more interested in the Bo Derek barrel.

So at the end of the tour we have sampling.

First they put a bottle of dry sherry on the table and tell you to help yourself. This stuff retails at E1 per glass, so not a big outlay but then they bring a tumbler of Harveys with ice and a slice of Orange, it is delicious. Then they put the brandy on the table, with chocolate and tell you to help yourself: now that is generous. If you knew this beforehand you could have quite a party!

We meet up in Rota with my good friend Lois and her travelling companion Francine. We spend two wonderful (if hot) evenings with them. The fish here is so varied and so fresh but we are surprised when that is all that is on the plate. Fortunately Lois had also ordered a plate of Tomato.

There is a large beach by the hotel where the tidal range is enormous. The Moors built these containing walls, enclosing an area a bit bigger than a football stadium. As the tide goes out the fish are fooled by the depth of the water and are trapped in the pool.  The water is also warmer and becomes a breeding ground for little shrimps.

Can you see the dolphin?

Art for the girls or for the boys?

We are now in the final weeks of the European part of our trip but due to reduced time in Portugal we have a week up our sleeves, unplanned. We  have decided to head to the white villages of Andalusia.

068 Spain: Tarifa; Cadiz (Morocco: Tangiers)

Spain: Santiponce, Tarifa;
Morocco: Tangiers
Spain: Conil, Zahara, Cadiz

We met some fellow Aussies who asked us if we had been to Santiponce. We said "Where?"
Turns out to have been the 3rd largest Roman city outside of Rome.
Unfortunately the main site was closed on Monday but this is the theatre that they have just started to excavate. I'd like to come back in 5 years just to see what they make of it.

Tarifa. The most southern point of Europe.
Lots of nice things going for it if you are young, a backpacker, a wandering musician or like to party. Picture of Tarifa port with Moroccan mts. behind.
We've been travelling since the 1st May with Aussie flag wing mirror covers. Someone in Tarifa stole them. Shame, as they got us noticed and helped us locate the car.

Each day I write my diary. This is one of the nicer places I've written it. On the roof of our hotel is a small area where you can sit. The breeze is wonderful.

Tarifa before the action starts. The hotel opposite us had happy hour from 11pm until 2am!

We took a day trip to Morocco, so that we can say we have been to 20 countries (sounds so much better than 19 :)
Our guide is wonderful but anxious that we are booked on the 6:30pm ferry and not the 2:30 ferry as he says "There isn't actually much to see in Tangiers".

They are very proud of their flag and it is to be found everywhere.

This man bakes bread. There are lots of these little places. Our guide pays him E4 so we can take the photo.

The market is wonderful. The fish and the spices. So clean. Note the swordfish head,

 

Frank's favourite stall. Garlic, onions and chilli by the rope load.

We enjoy our visit to Tangiers despite the three main attractions (Mosque, museum & Hercules cave) all being closed.
Having a guide was worth it as he prevented us from being harassed and gave us lots of history and interesting facts - he was also a top soccer player so Frank talked soccer with him.
I think the biggest surprise was the hundreds of cats on the streets.

Just outside our hotel in Tarifa are buskers. They are very talented. The Spanish guitar playing was formidable. We sat on our balcony and enjoyed it (After making our 'donation' to their 'cause') - spot Ruth on balcony.

From Tarifa to Cadiz, which isn't really a tourist destination and we love it all the more because there is very little English spoken.

On the way we are caught in flash floods. Finding our own diversion was a big challenge and at one stage I thought the GPS might blow a fuse as every few seconds she (Claudette) said "When possible make a U turn".
Some wonderful parks in Cadiz.

Centre of town (Although there are possibly 3 centres) - this is Town Hall where the boats arrived from the New World and sold their goods.

The 1812 Spanish Constitution was signed after Napoleon forced them to relocate the Spanish capital to Cadiz.
Spanish history is amazing.

After saying this isn't a tourist spot I'm now showing you something all places should have, for tourists. There are 5 coloured lines running all over the city. 4 are 1 hour walks, 1 is a 2 hour walk. You just follow the coloured line and along the way there are plaques to tell you what's what and who's who. Brilliant.

Next stop Rota, where we will catch up with my good friend Lois and her travelling companion Francine, (Franks edit: via Jerez where we will taste the sherry. Well.....Champagne in Champagne, Sauternes in Sauternes, Port in Porto, Schnapps in Germany, Vodka in Russia, Guinness in Ireland, Best Bitter in London etc.).

067 Spain: Seville; Cordoba

Spain: Seville; Cordoba
We are back in Spain

Our GPS has provided many challenges but this was up there with the best. This is 250m before the hotel. The car before us did a 5 point turn to get through. Notice the amount of gouged out concrete on the right. I walked up to look what was down the street and said to Frank "We can't make that". A wonderful lady popped out and assisted us around the corner. Only took Frank a 3 point turn! I gave her a big hug and a kiss :)

 

Flamenco: Amazing talent.
Seville claims to be the home of Flamenco.
The main guitarist was superb.
This was not a tourist spot. We had locals shouting 'Holay" which really added to the atmosphere.

In 1929 Seville hosted a world Expo and built this to house the expo. What you are seeing here is one half. There was a 'moat' and you could have a gondola ride.
The interior is still used as an administrative building.

part of the other half.

The first sky scraper in Seville. Just a bit incongruous, don't you think?

Seville has the oldest Bull ring in Spain and sadly still kills the bulls.
The season was over but I don't think we would have attended anyway. They kill 3 bulls per 'session'.
If the bull kills a matador they slaughter the mother so she cannot produce more offspring.

The bull ring also used to be used for training soldiers. They had to stab this head with a spike from the back of their horse.
In case you are wondering the head is made out of papier-mâché .

The Alcazar. Great place. Well presented and well restored.

View from a tower Frank climbed (keeps him fit :)
As you can see no sky scrapers. Most buildings are only 4 stories. Spot the bullring in the second picture.

We climbed the bell tower of the cathedral. I thought it was 17 ramps. It was 32 ramps and 17 steps. I thought I was going to die. The ramps are unusual and were done so that the chief poobah could ride up on his horse !
At the top the bell tower was magnificent. I had just said to Frank "I hope they don't ring the bells while we are up here" and guess what, just seconds later they did. OMG the noise. We don't carry our phones or have a watch so we rarely know the time - we just enjoy the moment.

Just one of the hundreds of courtyards (patio's). The Spanish are very house proud.

We saw an amazing number of weddings. This one was at 9pm with 4 white horses, tophats and tails. The wedding was in the cathedral with a huge crowd of people in attendance.
Even at this time of night it was still probably over 30C.

Cordoba. Just a quick 1/2 day visit by train.
It was over 35C and too hot for touring so we didn't enjoy it as much as we would if it had been cooler. Having said that it is a wonderful place.

Frank spotted these boomerangs in a tourist shop and had an unusual conversation with the owner of the shop.
First Frank wanted to know why he was selling boomerangs and the guy had no idea.
Secondly Frank told him he should stop selling them as this is Spain, not Australia. (in a friendly/funny manner)
The guy laughed.

Frank just loves Tapas, so when we spotted this place it instantly became his favourite.

And just when you think you have seen enough cathedrals there was the Mezquita in Cordoba.
It started life as a Christian church, got taken over by the Moors who changed it into a Mosque and then the Christians took it back and added even more, but thankfully they retained most of the Islamic/Moorish features. It is spectacular.

Just another of those photos Frank takes (Franks edit: this is actually the red hop on hop off bus tour guide and was only taken to show how smartly dressed they are!)

 

And that was Seville. We are so happy to be back in Spain.