017 Champagne Region

France: Champagne Region - Rilly-la- Montage & Epernay

Here is the map of just the Reims area of Champagne. In the village we are staying in there are 70 wine growers and 35 independent winemakers.

Each label has an area, or areas, where they grow their grapes and then the 'factory' where the champagne is made. This is the major growing (Grand Cru) are for Mumm. Each town has thousands of kilometres of underground caves on many levels. Mind boggling.

So we can't help but stop at a village called Bouzy.

  and I have my first 'degustation' (tasting) in Bouzy. Prices for tasting range hugely. Here it was 3 for 4 Euro. Very few places are free. Some are as much as 5 Euro per tasting.

At a roundabout in the middle of nowhere. Just our country home!

The rain hits again as we arrive at Moet & Chandon on the Avenue de Champagne in Epernay. Unfortunately all tours are booked and we can't go in.

Frank spots half size smart cars. These are real cars and we spot a couple on the road. Room for an adult and a child.

We 'discover' Hautvillers. It is the most beautiful village. In the church we find the tomb of Dom Perignon. Then we spot an independent winemaker with their setup in a courtyard overlooking the valley. The sun comes out. The clouds lift of the valley. The 'host' pours us a full glass, rather than a taste - heaven.

This is the label of the family where we are staying. Florence is our host and she is wonderful. Her English is restricted so we enjoy an opportunity to practise our French and we are happy that we can make ourselves understood. She gives us a real continental breakfast. Each morning there is bread, ham, eggs, home made yogurt and then she brings out the cake of the day. Yes - cake.

The Champagne region in conclusion:
Those who know me well know I am a strong advocate for Australian sparkling wine and my opinion is now totally cemented. Champagne is bureaucracy gone mad. The grapes must be picked by hand. They must be grown within certain borders - just 100 meters outside and you have to call yours sparkling wine. The rules are mind boggling. There are over 21000 (yes 21 thousand) wine producing families on just this tiny space. If you go into a bar/restaurant you get the champagne they are serving - no choice. everyone is affiliated with someone.
Most things open at 10am, close at 12, reopen at 2 and close at 7 (you don't even need to feed the parking meters outside these hours - the inspectors must also go to long lunch?)
The pastries blow your mind/tastebuds
The villages are magnificent, most well kept and well maintained. You get the feeling there is huge rivalry between them.
I've had a real educational experience here that will aid me appreciate Australian sparkling wine for the rest of my life.